Bushings
Tire/Wheels
Brakes
Replacement of the Bushings with some "Energy Suspension's".
The Front Control Arm was quite easy. It took me about two hours to do this task. I first started by disconnecting the Control Arm Inner Pivots. I then used a "C" Clamp and a Scocket to pull the old Bushing out (front one). The other one (rear) came off by twisting it off with a big Slip Joint Pliers. Then put the new bushings in using lots of "Permatex Dielectric Grease". Torqued everything to specs.
Le remplacement des Bushings du "Front Control Arm" m'on pris à peut près deux heures. J'ai commencé par déconnecter les deux pivots pour ensuite enlevé les Bushings avant avec l'aide d'une serre en "C" et une douille. Les bushings arrières ont étés enlevés avec l'aide d'une grande paire de pince à cannelure (Slip Joint). J'ai réinstallé les nouvelles bushings sans oublié de les couvrir de Graisse Dielectric (Permatex).
Rear Control Arm (Trailling Arm) was a task in itself.
First tried to remove one of the Trailling Arm Bolt. It broke on the first attempt. That bolt is secured with an nut welded inside the frame. I had to use a Reciprocating Saw to cut what was left of the bolt so I could lower the Rear Trailling Arm to replace the Bushings.
The Old Bushings had to be drilled/cut out and the Metal Sleeves had to be removed in order to put the new Bushings in. Again the use of the Reciprocating Saw came in handy.
Next step was to drill the nut out. Fuel Tank had to be removed so I could have a clean shot at it... Once drilled I reinstalled everything using new 3 1/2" x 7/16" Bolts.
Les Bushings des "rear Control Arms" ont étés tout une tâche. C'est à la première étape que j'ai brisé le boulon du "Trailling Arm". Cellui-ci est tenu par une noix qui se trouve à l'intérieur de la carroserie. J'ai du utilisé une scie sauteuse pour pouvoir coupé l'autre extrémitée du boulon à fin de pouvoir enlevé le "Trailling Arm".
Les vielles Bushings ont étés percée/coupé à fin d'être enlevées. Les "chemises" (sleeves) de métal ont ensuite été coupées en deux avant de pouvoir installé les nouvelles Bushings.
Le réservoir à essence as du être enlevé pour me permettre de percé les vieux boulons. Il ont étés remplacés par des nouveaux boulons de 3 1/2" x 7/16".
Sway Bar Bushings were replaced last year. I have not replaced the End Links.
J'ai remplacé les Bushings de la "Sway Bar" l'an passé. Je n'ai pas remplacé les Bushings des "End Links".
Subframe Bushings
I replaced these Bushings while the Motor was out of the Car for Balance Shaft Removal. It can be done with the Motor in. Sub Frame has to be dropped. I pushed the Old Bushings using a Big Ass C-clamp Puller Type. Made it a lot easyer.
This Mod eleminated a few Front End "Cluncks". I did not notice much improvement while driving the opend road. Small improvement on the Track. Front End feels Stronger while cornering. Might of induce a little bit more "Understeer" ;~(...
J'ai remplacé les Bushings du Sub Frame lorce que le Moteur/Transmission on été enlevé pour l'ablation des Balance Shafts. Cette modification peut être faite avec le moteur dans le compartiment. Enlevé le Sub Frame puis poussé les Bushings hors de leur tros. J'ai utilisé un "Puller" du type C-clamp. Ça la rendu la tâche plus facile.
Cette Modification as éliminée quelques "clunks" du train avant. Je n'ai pas percu grand amélioration sur la route. Petite amélioration en piste. Le devant de l'automobille semble plus solide lorce que j'effectu un virage. Peut-être induit un petit peut plus de survirage ;~(...
Here are some Part Numbers;
Quelques numéros de pièces;
1G NT; 1G AWD
Front End Control Arm 5-3108 5-3108
Rear End Control Arm 5-3109 5-3113
Sub Frame 5-4103 5-4105
Front Sway Bar 5-5107 5-5106
Track Arm 5-7106 Rear Sway Bar 5-5108
Tie Rod Boots 9-13101 9-13101
2G FWD and AWD;
Master Set 5-18107
Front End Control Arm 5-3118
Rear End Control Arm 5-3119
Sway Bars
Front; Rear;
16mm 5-5133 12mm 5-5145
18mm 5-5132 15mm 5-5146
19mm 5-5130 18mm 5-5147
Front Shock Upper 5-8103
Rear Shock Upper 5-8104
Manual Transmission Shifter Stabilizer 5-1102
Motor Mount (3 touque mounts) 5-1103
Note; I got those out of the Energy Suspension 2000 Catalog. Please double check the part numbers with your vendor before ordering.
BTW; You can get those Bushings set at Canadian Tire.
Note; Ces numéros de pièces provient du catalog d'Energy Suspension 2000. Demandé à votre vendeur de vérifiez ceux-ci.
Vous pouvez les commendé chez Canadian Tire.
Wheels and Tires
I had to replace the Tires as the ones that came with the car were getting pretty worn and had been "Heat Cycled" too many time. I refer to these as my "Balddinies"...Could not get good traction anymore.
I first used the Tire Rack add in SCC and looked at the size I needed 205 55 16. I wanted a VR or ZR rating. The previous Tire I had on the car was Firestone FTX Touring... Side walls were way to soft and the speed rating was only 180KM. Tread Patern was not that bad and the only positive point was that they were pretty quiet and smooth riding...
I then looked at what I really needed and what kind of buget I had. My car is a NT and I put the thing on the track 6 or 7 times a year. I could not pay $200 per Rubber and would not justify that much. Still had lots to chose from.
I had a local shop price me a set of Khumo VR rated for $125 and the local "Sears" quoted me $135 for a set of Michelin Pilot ZR for $135 if you can belive it. Would of have to pay for mounting + TXsss.
I finally got a set Of Khumo's ZR for $145 installed. They were the last set of 205 55 16 in Ontario (Two in London, two in T.O.). I would of have to wait a long time for the VR. VR would of been pretty good as they have the same speed rating as the ZR but had a Treadwear of 340 while the ZR have a 280. The VR would of lasted me a little longer and costed $20 cheaper. How long did I wanted to wait??? Not that long as the first day at the track was only a few days ahead...
I also wanted to get a set of Alloys to mount the new Tire on. Again did not wanted to pay millions and did not want to get anything too "Ricey". I got a set of "Laser Mesh Rims". The one that came (option) with the same car that year (1991).
They weigh 19lbs while the "Steels" weight 46lbs... Get the point???
Needless to say that I really seen a difference on the Track with the new Wheel/Rims Combo.
My previous best ever time on the Shannonville SMP Long Track was 2.13. That was two years ago. I did the same Lap in 2.10 on two occasions at this year first event. My best time last year was 2.18 with old over heat cycled gumballs.
I'm planing to push it a little more next time I go over as the last time was a first with those new Wheels and Brakes.
Did a little more pushing last time I was at the Track. Very satisfied
about those Khumo's. Stiffer side walls (Thank you), very predictable when hot and amazing
in the rain. No regret at all.
Brakes
Just put a set of Front Metal Axxis Brake Pads on the car with fresh set EuroRotors Discs. Was using a set of Semi-Metalic last year with whatever "Gruved" Discs. Big improvements...
So far I've seen no fade at all. I could not lock up the Brake withe the Semi's, no problem with the Full Metal Pads. Not that you want to lock up the Brake. I feel those Single Piston Brake can finally do some decent work.
Some might of never encounter Brake Fade. Try this; Go on a very quiet Back Road. Drive at 80km and slam the Brakes as hard as you can without locking them. Try this Five times in a row... What you'll feel is Brake Fade unless you have decent Brakes.
I tried this little experimentation with the Conventionnal (Soap) Pads that came with the car. Got scared after Three times as I had lost most of the braking. Replaced them with Semi-Metalic the next day. Drove the car a few days before I tried the same. Did it Five times with some fade. Had to manage the Brake on the Track but was somewhat satisfied with the results.
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Addresse Électronique / E-Mail address ; ghislisa@lks.net