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Out of the Sun
                        March 2022


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Following the Black Lives Matter international protests during the Covid lockdowns of 2020, in 2021 it seemed appropriate that the Massey Lectures were given by a black Canadian author, Esi Edugyan. Her five lectures gave us the book Out of the Sun, On Race and Storytelling, Ahansi Press, 2021. It is a gentle but telling book. Portraits, history, stories and travels touching 5 continents give insights into black people in world history.

 

The first chapter is about Europe, about galleries and paintings of blacks. At the beginning the author describes being painted herself in the context of her home on Vancouver Island. She has benefitted from several residencies for people in the humanities in Europe and so has had a chance to see many galleries. Paintings of blacks are contentious, few, and have Blacks in certain roles like footmen, slaves, maids or magi.

 

On one residence she found herself in Scone Palace, Scotland. It contains a portrait from 1778 of Lady Elizabeth Murray, white, restrained and dressed in pale colours. She looks serious, is static and holding a book. Beside her is Dido Elizabeth Bell, her Black cousin. Dido looks mischievous, happy and in motion. She is carrying a plate of fruit. She wears a white turban with a feather. She is oriental, exotic and set in apposition to Europe’s rationality. Orient meant linked to Africa. Slavery was a feature of European expansionism. Initially the slaves were white but they became Blacks from the 1400s.

 

Blacks arrived in port towns and entered works of art. English plantations employed overseers to run things so the English had an imagined idea of black people and Blacks were used symbolically. Slaves living in big houses tended to be part of portraits there 1700 – 1900, staring adoringly at their masters in bright clothes and turbans – symbols of wildness. The images were far from the reality of plantation life.

 

Returning to Dido in Scone Palace, she was one of many children of mixed relationships sent back to England. Her father was related to Lord Mansfield who had taken her in. Her picture shows subordination. Yet she was loved by her host and she moved, though uneasily, through aristocratic England in her day. Her capturing gaze seems to say that we Blacks have always been here.

 

Travelling with artist friends the author visits an exhibition involving one of those friends. There she is drawn by a series of identical paintings by a timid artist of a striking image: a black man wearing 18th century European dress and a white turban carrying a cane capped by an emaciated lion. It was based on the best copy of a lost original portrait of Angelo Soliman, who led a remarkable life and had a bizarre death.

 

Soliman was taken from what is now Nigeria and ended up at the end of the slave route in Sicily where he was bought and named by the local marchesa who educated him. She gifted him to the Austrian governor of Sicily whom he accompanied as companion and valet. On the death of his owner, he was sent to Vienna to the house of the prince of Liechtenstein. He was liked at the court and, being well educated, moved easily in aristocratic circles. He joined the Masonic Lodge and took on a leadership role. In the prince’s circles he met Magdalena Christiani, a widowed noblewoman. She became his wife. They had a daughter Josephine who married a prominent Viennese nobleman.

 

A year before Haid painted that striking original portrait of Soliman, Bellotto painted a very different portrait of the prince and Soliman in the Liechtenstein gardens. In it Soliman is next to the prince at the height of a five-year-old and holding a tray of baked goods and a glass of water for his master. What happened after his death is even more striking. Despite pleadings for his body by his daughter there was no burial. He was skinned and the skin was put on a frame the size of a man and it was put on display in the Austrian Royal Natural History Collection. On his head was a crown of ostrich feathers.

 

In 2015 the author enters the Brooklyn Museum where she is confronted by a troubling portrait that reminds her of Soliman. A Black man is lying in a field of wildflowers on a mattress in a ball cap and scruffy jeans with eyes full of divine intensity. Tension arose from the rapturous pose and the stark modern clothes. Kehinde Wiley is part of a disparate group of Black artists taking charge of their own representation and the historical representation of Blackness. Harmonia Rosales created an uproar with her The Creation of God 2017, a re-think of Michelangelo’s The Creation of Adam a fresco in the ceiling of the Sistine Chapel in Rome. Her God is a Black woman!

 

Wiley is likely the most famous of the group; best known for his portrait of Napoleon and now Barak Obama. In Wiley’s pictures each black and brown face, and the grandeur of every expression and every pose that evokes Velasquez, Gaugin, Caravaggio issues a plea to have an essential humanity recognized. Wiley felt drawn to the beauty of paintings from an alien world of European noblemen portraits. The author understands the pull of the beauty of those historic portraits, a pull that contrasts with a sense of alienation from the world they represent. The power of Wiley’s portraits stems from these two clashing elements.

 

In 2020 galleries in Florence planned lectures about Black figures in Old Master paintings. This provoked far-right protests. But the paintings were already part of the permanent collections. The lectures were to be about pictures already there, and not just the legacy of white Europeans. For example, Duke Alessandro Medici who ruled Florence 1532-1537 was dark skinned. A 2019 exhibition at the Paris Musee d’Orsay was similarly controversial. There the paintings were to be renamed in honour of the Black subjects reminding viewers of the presence of Black people in France for centuries. For example, Portrait of a Negress became Madeleine. But the author favours recalling the original name as well as offering a contemporary name.

 

This chapter ends with the author reflecting on whether a casual portrait of her mother and her own formal portrait reflect what people feel about themselves or are more true to how others see them. She is amazed how portraits from long ago can start one’s mind imagining the sitter’s feelings and thoughts. We reach back towards them with the mysteries we all live out.

 

Canada and the Art of Ghosts is her second chapter. It begins with the rural farm owned by parents of her friends – a large property with a lake in Alberta. They enjoyed happy times there. The author was surprised to learn the farm had been sold. It seems strange things happened there, small at first. The furniture was moved slightly. Finally, the family arrived to find the lights not working and all the bulbs neatly piled in one room. This introduces the notion of ghosts. We never quite learn whether the author is a believer!

 

Ghosts link us to past people on the land and give the people’s passage there an importance. Ghost stories are among the oldest in every culture. Although Blacks have passed through that part of Alberta, the author’s friend’s parents only examined European groups who had passed through. That’s how we think of ghosts. They are like us, speaking our language and using today’s idioms.

 

The lands around Edmonton and north of it contained vast lakes and forests with plains running through them that were known to Cree, Tsuut’ina, Nakota Sioux, Niitsitapi, Saulteaux Peoples. Feed slaves from Oklahoma and the South made their way to this Alberta prairie. The farm was close to an area that Western Indigenous passed through and it was also near to a Black township. Ghost stories mostly feature unnatural death, usually violent whether by accident, suicide, execution or murder.

 

If ghost stories reflect our history, what does it mean if they are missing. Blacks made up 3.5% of the settlers but ghost stories are rare and black ghosts do not feature in ghost tours. But in old Montreal a woman in white roams rue St Paul with the sign “Arsonist” around her neck – the ghost of Marie-Joseph Angélique who has a square named after her. Born a slave in Madeira 1705, sold to a Flemish man, brought to Montreal whose wife was particularly cruel. Slaves in Canada did not work on plantations. They did domestic work in households.

 

Angélique had an affair with an indentured servant. When left together at a house, they set fire to that house and tried to escape to New England. The militia caught them and took them back. Her lover was jailed. Angélique was sold and scheduled to be sent to Quebec City whence she feared being sold in the West Indies. When her lover was released, they planned to escape again.

 

Then a huge fire broke out and Angélique was rumoured to have started it. She denied that, but rumours led to a warrant for her arrest. Her lover disappeared. In Montreal she was found guilty of arson. Her sentence included a parade to the church with an “arsonist” label around her neck and having both hands cut off. Before this sentence was carried out in Montreal, she was taken to Quebec City. There an appeal court lessened her sentence to being hanged then burnt, but only if she confessed as well.

 

Returned to Montreal, a seasoned torturer, who was a Black slave, obtained her confession. She was hanged and burned. The author found a student newspaper had a recent short report of her being seen near St Paul Street. By giving her this ghostly afterlife, Angélique is remembered in the community she was part of.

 

We have been slow to make visible the failings of that era. Slavery is not one of the ghost stories of our history. It doesn’t haunt us, and Canadians know little about it. When slavery comes up we think of the Underground Railroad for escaping slaves in the US coming into Canada. But Canada itself was a society with slaves, if not exactly a slave society. People of African descent were transported to Ontario, PEI, New Brunswick, Nova Scotia, Quebec, but there is a dearth of source data and so scholarship is lacking. We do know that in Quebec there were 4,000 slaves including indigenous with about half around Montreal and most of them house slaves like Angélique.

 

In 1830 Priceville Ontario was founded by Black settlers claiming lots promised by the Crown. Many had fought in the war of 1812 and the town was named after “Colonel” Price. They cleared and tilled the land yet it never formally became theirs. Later settlers on adjacent properties moved to force them out. They were deemed squatters and their land was parcelled out except the cemetery.

 

In 1930 the estate with the cemetery was sold to a farmer who planted potatoes on it. Black cemeteries were not protected by the law and were subject to desecration. Stones could be removed - and were. Some Priceville citizens remembered their past and lobbied for the land to go into public domain. In 1989 a rock heap on school grounds revealed gravestones and “part of a world was recovered from oblivion”. Then ground scanning radar found 100 graves on the land. Now the graves are in a small fenced-in field under piles of rock. Ghost stories allow the living to write onto the past their concerns. Certain people are excluded from the narrative. Certain events go ignored.

 

The author reports a visit to her mother at work in a seniors’ home where she encounters a strange old woman who leads her around. Later, her mother tells her it must be Mr. Gold – there is no woman! There are stories of ghosts that should be there, but are not. Early Black settlers on Saltspring Island where the author was raised were murdered - shot in a pattern of reluctant police, automatic suspicion of indigenous, trials and hangings despite lack of evidence or even in face of counter evidence. Some have written that the Black settlers found a better environment on Saltspring than the California they left. But those murders tell another story. In the end there are no ghost stories written to remember the murdered Backs or to remember the indigenous hung.

 

Finally, the author has a terrifying encounter with a man on the dark top floor at a party of a college friend in the strange house where she lived. Others went to look but saw and found nobody. Her friend later admitted to taking photos in dark recesses of buildings in the hope of catching a ghost - so “he’d be seen”.

 

The author recalls a sleep-over as a child with a new friend. They watch a movie about sisters. At a climax one sister yells you’re Black to the other. There is emotion. The Black girl blames her mother. The new friend looks at the author who realizes that she is Black and that she carries this for herself and for her friend. The US has the notion of “passing” – in one direction – as a white. There is a history of extent of Blackness in which one drop of Black blood and you’re considered Black. The author notes that the various heritages of her sons get lost in the overwhelming Black. Racial passing, then, is about the privilege of moving around freely and unremarked upon.

 

After Obama, the notion of a post-racial world arose. But after the Trump era that can’t be serious suggestion. However it can be a yearning among people like those who joined in the protests about George Floyd’s murder. Such a world would allow people to be what they feel.

 

There is passing, but what about the opposite “Blackfishing”. The author gives the accounts of two whites who passed as blacks and documented the racism and indignities of living as Blacks in the US South – Ray Sprigle in 1948 and John Griffin in 1961. Both became powerful spokesmen for the Black experience. Griffin was forced to leave his Texas home and live in Mexico on account of backlash. In 2021 it’s too easy to consider their experiments as forays into blackface for white sensibilities. But in 1948 and 1961 it was not wrong to impersonate or speak to another’s experience. Conveying the marginalized circumstances of Blacks was the more powerful coming from the centre. Yet it remains that these were whites writing for whites. The experiments may have been condescending, but they implied that since whites caused these conditions whites should fix them. That work fitted alongside Black activism in pushing Civil Rights into the national consciousness. And the empathy of these men seems genuine. Nonetheless, in 2021 people are expected to speak for themselves so that lines need to be marked between empathy, activism and performance.

 

In 2015 Rachael Dolezal confessed she was not Afro-American. She was NAACP president, chair of local police oversight, professor of Africana studies, founding organizer of Spokane’s Black Lives Matter protests. She lost all posts and her livelihood. Her autobiography tells a more complex story. She was born to a religious pro-life couple who favoured adoption of Black children. These children were then treated differently from her and her brother. Dolezal schooled her siblings in Black history. As a teenager she cared for them and learned the intricacies of Black hair. She adopted one of them herself alongside her own bi-racial son. She became a “black adjacent”, living with and alongside the Black community - more than an ally.

 

Then she went further, affecting black hairstyles and darkening her skin. To her, race is mutable, random and fluid – seen rather like the modern view of sexuality. Indeed, a Toronto professor wondered whether people might be transracial like they are transgendered. However, this thought led to angry outbursts as the professor was called racist and transphobic and ignorant of the troubled histories of marginalised groups. Identities are partly formed by factors outside ourselves.

 

The author describes going to a job interview in Calgary at age 19. A man and women stepped into the hall where she and 5 others waited. She could see they were surprised to see her. There was one job they said. She said she had applied. It was filled yesterday the woman said awkwardly. She left confused and upset not knowing then that she had been constructed in their minds, without her knowledge or consent. “The person I was and the person I seemed to be were not the same”. The author describes others caught out for pretending to be Blacks. She ends musing over “transracial” as a useful direction, but she cannot herself feel comfortable with treating it in the same way as “transexual”. “I live out my race in a far more charged way than I do my gender.”

 

The last story is about Ada Copeland, a Black from Georgia who moved North to be a nursemaid in Manhattan after the Civil War. In 1888 she met James Todd a fair skinned Black who worked the railways as a Pullman porter. They had a happy wedding. In 1901 she got a letter from him telling her to sell the house and move to Toronto. It seemed plausible since there had been race riots. In December she learned Todd lay dying of tuberculosis and he confessed to her that he was a white man called Clarence King from a well-established family of English origin, with a doctorate from Yale and research at Harvard. To friends he was known as a great adventurer. King destroyed his letters and asked his wife to destroy hers. We don’t know how Copeland reacted, but she changed her name to King. King did not change his physical self. He set aside white privilege for love. The decades of marriage and 5 children is a commitment. King made his strongest statements against racism as a white man.

 

Africa and the Art of the Future is Esi’s fourth chapter. It begins with a much-retold tale of how her parents met at a Pan-African get-together party for new comers to watch the moon walk on TV. It was Sao Paolo USA. Her father knew they were both Ghanan, but from different tribes and her mother spoke a clipped “g” like an American. They had a lot in common. Identities are fed by situations experienced, stories told and passed down. Their other story included that of teenagers living through the transition from a British Colony, Gold Coast, into a new nation, Ghana. They had to feel the parts of all that which they felt were theirs. This moon landing was part of their future.

 

Five years before the moon landing, Edward Nkoloso, a science teacher in Zambia, Africa’s newly independent country, was director of the National Academy of Science, Space Research and Philosophy and training 12 astronauts to beat Russians and Americans. It attracted attention in Time magazine and the author captures the way the program hovered as a kind of joke or something else. There was pageantry – green pants and yellow jackets doubling for the rock band they played in during off hours. To train for zero gravity they were to swing on a rope which was cut at the highest point. Of course, they never went to Mars with the two cats, and after media attention died down the “astronauts’ began to disperse. But was the joke on “us”?

 

Nkoloso was known affectionately in Zambia for his role in the independence movement and for his humour. Why and how are we laughing? Is it that African ingenuity might put mankind into space? Western thinkers saw technological progress as a future bound by race. Well, we now know that black women scientists made critical contributions in their role as human computers at NASA. Or is it that Africa should see itself as part of the international race for space?  Nkoloso took a missionary education, but with WWII, the British drafted him into the King’s African Rifles and thence into the Signal Corps. After the war he was no freer and he ended up moving in government sanctioned schools teaching Latin, math and science. He joined an advisory council and pushed his progressive views seeker better education for Africans. He organized civil disobedience – marches. He made weapons – bombs. His son revealed a counter-narrative to his Zambian space program – he was training people as fighters for freedom. In an infamous editorial he said the capital of his visioned scientific Zambia must look beautiful, people from afar must not see a slum of a capital.

 

Nkoloso and the author’s parents were born in colonies of an Empire that changed suddenly into their nations. That Empire taught achievements that were uniquely British and a history that was British to the exclusion of all else. How can a community whose history has been rubbed out imagine its future? To have any sense of the past is difficult for the heirs of slavery and colonialism. The author perceives the film Black Panther with its fictional country of Wakanda as central to examining Afrofuturism. She took her dad to see it. He laughed. The capital has impressive sky-scrapers with familiar touches like African thatch roofing. The countryside is gorgeous. And the plot recalls the plundering of resources by outsiders. Wakanda is a fantasia. “It is a vision of a pan-African future in which progress has been allowed to play out without destructive meddling from outside ...” It is a fleshing out of the vision of Nkoloso.

 

The author describes the time of her mother’s death when she lived in old university student housing as a time of un-mooring. In the months of mourning, she felt like a lapsed African, cut off from her link. She had never been African – she was just of African heritage. Time had made the way things once belonged, belong no more – rather like Afrofuturism. A new life must come from the ashes of the old one. The story of dislocation is also a story of finding new anchors.

 

The author introduces us to a novel, Lagoon by Okorafor, an American of Nigerian descent, about an alien invasion centred on Nigeria. The novel is in part a response to the South African film by Neill Blomkamp involving aliens. That movie has metaphors that resonate with the apartheid experiences and sought to link to treatment of other Africans in South Africa. But the depiction of Nigerians attracted controversy – they are gang members, weapons-dealers or prostitutes. There were protests in Nigeria. Blomkamp sees Blacks as much a part of the oppression of the aliens in the film as whites. “Yes, human behaviour is universal”.

 

Lagoon puts Nigeria at the centre of the story and is uniquely itself. Okorafor has an ambassador for the aliens, Ayodele, who can change her form and is an incarnation of Mama Wata, a water god known throughout the African diaspora. Emerging as she does from the Atlantic, she is able to make a link between science fiction and slave histories with an emphasis on the body and what it means to have agency over it. A charm of the book for the author, is the humour around the invisibility of “developing nations”. The invasion by aliens in Nigeria does not early attract any attention of Westerners. “What will recorded history look like if an event of this magnitude in Africa is ignored by the rest of the world?” Such sidelining is the kind of thing that erased the past. That allowed historians like Trevor-Roper to call Africa “an area of darkness”.

 

Ten years after her mother’s death, the author describes “going back” – which she explains is really going for the first time to Ghana with her brother and sister. There is discussion of the fears and uncertainties of meeting relatives which in the end turns into something of great beauty. She meets her father’s 101 year-old mother and spends time with her two aunts – one whose speech reminds the author of her mother.

 

The final and fifth chapter is on Asia and the art of Story-Telling and it begins in Beijing that she calls illuminated and full of light as she evokes the bustling of the streets. She finds an underground store of pirated goods; she is moved by the stalls around Tiananmen Square. The author passes strangers from the countryside. They eye each other as they pass. The author senses a commonality with the strangers. A Polish journalist has suggested that meeting someone in a foreign country is like meeting two people. The first we recognize as a fellow human. The second attracts and reflects our pre-conceived ideas about their race. Story telling is as old as humanity. Stories fix people in a time and space and attract histories.

 

For centuries Africa and Asia had little contact. Then contact came indirectly via Dutch merchants who brought tales of black people traded as slaves that were mindlessly adopted by locals. Black contact with China began with Tang dynasty (618-907AD) traders dealing with city states of East Africa. African slavery was present but marginal in China. Arab traders sold them. As in Europe the rich saw them as an exotic way to display wealth. African slaves were called “Kunlun”. Initially feared, by the end of the Tang they were romanticized in fables. That changed in the Song dynasty (966-1279AD) when numbers came from Madagascar to the Canton region where they were deemed inassimilable and primitive. The view that developed and the racism in Europe and China was largely influenced by the stories of Arab and Muslim slave traders.

 

Interestingly, free Africans were seen differently. East African merchant Zhengjiani’s arrival in 1079 was welcomed with celebrations, respect, a meeting with the emperor, and a grant of ambassadorial status. Trade with East Africa was profitable and as today attitudes were influenced by that context. This trade continued into the Ming dynasty, although it was tempered by the growth of European trade.

 

The author turns to her own short story about her visit to the great wall in China. Her elegant tale ends without conclusion. She has lost her way back off the great wall with dark moving in and snow falling. She encounters two people who don’t understand but offer her hot tea. They disappear into the falling snow and she is left on the wall … Her story ends.

 

Accompanying Jesuit missionaries to Nagasaki in 1579 as a valet and bodyguard was a tall heavy set black skinned man – Yasuke - who attracted attention. People gathering to see him. The feudal ruler Nobunga had Yaske brought to him – and tried to rub the black off. Esi notes there are no accounts of how Blacks felt about such treatment. Yasuke had arrived in Japan fluent in Japanese. Nobunga was impressed and offered to train him as a samurai – a top warrior. Yasuke agreed. Within a year he achieved this and was made sword bearer in the royal guard. Nobunga was the strongest of three remaining feudal lords at the time. His jurisdiction was central and included the capital. Yosuke was fluent in Swahili and this lead Esi to muse about which present day African country he had come from.

 

Eventually, Nobunga and Yasake suffered defeat by a rival faction. Nobunga saved his honour by committing suicide. Yasake was spared and became a samurai without master. The story suggests that the Jesuit saw Yasake as something to boost his status. Nobunga saw past the surface to a fellow human and indeed the two became friends. Even so, Esi wonders whether Yasake ever got to reveal his deeper self – the things he had been forced to leave behind, what he meant to himself, how he felt about the worlds he had been dragged through that he could never have imagined.

 

Black Africans first made an appearance in Japan in the 16 th century via Dutch and Portuguese sailing ships. The Blacks were or had been slaves. They were met with awe. Locals would travel to see them. Before Africans and Europeans Japan had been viewed as a homogeneous society. However, there were always peoples from nearby countries as well as Japan’s own ethnic minorities. By colour, Blacks were linked to India and they were judged by their treatment by Europeans. They were seen as objects of contempt.

 

Until the late 16 th century when the practice was banned, Europeans had some Japanese slaves. After the ban, there were only African slaves. Any Black in Japan was a slave and the European perspective on Blacks was reinforced. Ideas of Western superiority came to shape ways Japanese saw themselves. Once, derided as uncivilized, Europeans and whiteness became symbols of high civilization. Native Americans and Africans became associated with low people. While race is a genetic inheritance of a colour, caste is the fiction told about differences. In Japan, the fiction arrived before the people.

 

There is the remarkable story of the Chinese admiral Zheng He. Born a Muslim, castrated for refusing to disclose an enemy location to the Ming army, he became houseboy for prince Zhu Di. Brilliant, Zheng co-plotted successfully for the prince to become emperor. The emperor then put him in command of an enormous fleet. Zheng made seven huge expeditions 1405-1433 AD reaching East Africa. Zheng’s Navy did not last. After his benefactor died, politics swung away from reaching outside China. The new emperor banned building ships. The records of Zeng’s expeditions were destroyed. However, researchers found that one ship had been destroyed at the island of Pate off the Kenya coast where Chinese sailors were stranded. Mixed race heirs of those sailors are there to this day and they seem an accepted part of the population. A graveyard has tombs recalling the Ming dynasty style.

 

Sitting in her home the author can hear her children playing as she recalls for us a different horrific story of Japanese miners isolated in all men camps to work a Japanese mine in 1970s Zaire, now the Democratic Republic of Congo. The men had left whole lives behind. Some struck up friendships to get out of the camp, some struck up relationships with Congolese women and some began families over the few years. Then the work was finished and it was time to return. Pressures of how to negotiate a second family arose. For some the shame was overwhelming. To this day, Black-Asian sexual relationships are in the zone of taboo. Miscegenation carries a story of tainting blood, giving the child a caste inheritance.  For some, abandoning children was worse than that. But the mining company insisted they all leave without new family ties.

 

At this point the formal record diverges from local testimony in which the infants and children were murdered. The mothers would take their children to the local hospital run by the company for a simple check-up or minor illness. The Japanese doctor and assistant would only treat them with mothers out of the room. Returning home, the children would become weak and lethargic and die within hours. The assumption was that to spare the miners shame, the children were being poisoned. Mothers turned to giving birth at home, not registering children and even moving elsewhere with their children. The number of survivors is unknown, but a group of fifty is seeking an investigation.

 

The author regrets not visiting the “Little Africa” district in Guangzhou on the Pearl River. West Africans came in the 1990s. In a spirit of trade, migrants would stay for months gathering things that they could sell for profit back home. (The author herself had searched for a traditional fabric known in the Ghana of her childhood but could only find Chinese made goods.) By 2005-2012 some 100,000 Africans were living there – a visible “disquieting” community. Rumours of the deaths of two Nigerians in 2009 caused demonstrations that became riots. In 2012, a death in custody led to demonstrations, but this time there were mass immigration sweeps and the closing of African shops and churches. By 2014 there was a gentrification program and Africans were clearly not welcome. Covid-19 added to that. Black populations had more prolonged quarantines; “race became a vector of contagion”.

 

Meanwhile, in North America it was people of Asian descent who were attacked as a result of Covid-19. Benign physical differences became stand ins for an enemy virus we cannot see. The author adds “The story of belonging is not theirs to inhabit”. Yet like the sailors left on Pate, the world where they are is their only world.

 

The author had gone to China for a book festival. The day before leaving she went to see the Forbidden City. It was off season so that most people were from other parts of China. She was aware that for some she was a spectacle. Then at one point she saw a face of hate – extreme contempt- and grunts like a gorilla. She was aware she had no place in their country. Yes, this experience is real in China, but there is another side.

 

Exhausted and hot from her day, she sat down in a restaurant and ordered tea. It came hot. A helpful man spoke Mandarin to the waitress who returned with ice cubes. She thanked the man who was holding a book. She pointed out that she had been on the podium with the author of the book he was holding. They had an exchange about the book festival. Then something occurred to the man. “Wait, are you hungry? Come with me.” She hesitated, but he only meant to take her to a restaurant across the street where he was about to hold a party introducing his wife’s new baby to friends. This was an unusual invitation for Chinese to make. Introduced, the author chatted with those present and answered questions. The tired man’s wife arrived and the author’s presence was explained. The two of them talked about motherhood. Then the man said “Wait, let Esi hold the baby”. And with a flourish of descriptive words I cannot emulated, Esi did.


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